Trip to the Glaciers

**Disclaimer- I started writing this a week ago but due to how busy I have been, I have only had chance to finish it now**

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I have just returned from one of the toughest journeys I have encountered since being here- physically and mentally but I am so glad I persevered.

Having never seen a glacier before I was determined to head down to Franz Josef Glacier and Fox Glacier whilst being here in New Zealand. I booked my room for an overnight stay in Franz Josef, packed my walking boots and lots of layers and headed on my 500km drive down the west coast to the glacier country.

Being in a car for 6hours is not easy at the best of times but when it is only you in the car it was an even bigger task so I was determined to make the most of it. Lauren kindly made me a packed lunch to go with, I had plenty of drinks and my ipod was fully charged so I could sing to my heart content knowing noone could hear me.

In all honesty, the drive down was much better than the drive back due to the time of day I left, but due to the scenery and the lack of other motorists it was really quite pleasant. There was no need to rush which was fantastic as some of the roads were less than ideal-lots of tight corners at a very high altitude meant it was much more comfortable knowing you can take your time without feeling pressured to put your foot down.

I had some lovely stops on the way down by some of the most beautiful lakes I have ever seen and it was great to sit down, eat my salad and stretch my legs to refresh myself before heading back in the car to get to Franz Josef. I still can’t get over the ‘service stops’ here. At home stopping at a service station means you run into a building, maybe go to the bathroom, get some fast food if you are lucky before running back to your car and rejoin the wonderful sights of a British motorway. Here, they don’t have shops or buildings, instead you are at a beautiful lookout, hike or part of a national park. You don’t hear any traffic from the road and it is a proper break from a drive where you can see something you weren’t intending on seeing or just sit and and read a book in the peace and quiet. Pure bliss.

By the time I got to Franz Josef it was 4:30 and my room was located in a motel 5minutes away from the base of the glacier which was great. Due to the time I arrived I knew I wanted to get some food before heading back to my room so I could get an early-ish night so I could see both glaciers the following day before heading back to Renwick. I also wanted to ensure I spent the least amount of time driving in the dark the following day as the roads are quite treacherous in the daytime and in the dark with no street lights it would be terrifying.

I awoke bright and early on Thursday and it was freezing, so I made sure I had plenty of layers before heading off to get a coffee and walk to see the Franz Josef Glacier. Walking through a rainforest environment knowing I was about to see one of the most famous glaciers blew my mind. Even though it was so cold, the greenery around me was amazing and coming out on the other side to see my first glimpse of the glacier was incredible. The walk to the glacier wasn’t to bad at all and due to getting up so early it was a great way to refresh myself and clear my head. Since being diagnosed with mental health issues, I have fully appreciated the benefits of a walk especially whilst listening to musice-it is so relaxing and the fact you are getting some exercise makes it all the better.

The walk was definitely worth it and the hill I was warned about was nowhere near as bad as I thought it would be. The glacier was incredible and I feel so privileged to have been able to seen it. There are lots of signs on the way to the glacier stating this is where the glacier was in 1935 for example and how quickly the glaciers are reducing in size. I am not embarrassed to admit that I have always rolled my eyes when people talk about the impact of global warning on the environment- I don’t know if it is because I have been brought up and live in the hub of an industrial area- but I have always had a very blasé attitude towards global warming as selfishly I think personal and family concerns take priority. However, since being in New Zealand where conserving the environment is almost central to everything they do (e.g Air New Zealand donates $2.50 to their own environmental charity), I have actually listened and learnt a lot about the environment and impact global warming is having. Seeing a glacier which is reducing at rapid speed is incredibly sad and it concerns me that future generations won’t be able to see this amazing spectacle. I am not going to go vegan, vegetarian or all eco friendly but I will endeavour to become as responsible I can to the environment- not only here in New Zealand but at home. The air and water is so clear everywhere you go here it is a constant reminder to me how much damage is being caused.

Anyway, after seeing the incredible Franz Josef Glacier, I headed back to my car and drove 25km south to Fox Glacier. The drive was amazing but on such tight windy roads going up such a huge mountain road I contemplated more than once if I should just turn round and head to Renwick. It was so scary but I knew I would beat myself up for the rest of my trip if I didn’t persevere so with that reminding me, I continued to drive and it was not the first time that afternoon that I was thankful that I pushed myself to get to the destination.

Due to the Franz Josef Glacier being a particularly pleasant walk, I turned left for the car park where you want to leave the car so you can walk to the glacier instead of just going to the lookout. Now, due to the previous walk not being a particularly long or difficult one, I left my iPod in my car but I ensured I was wearing my sturdy timberlands, lots of layers and had my phone and water in my backpack.  I wandered off thinking I had everything I needed to see the glacier and in theory I did- but- what they don’t tell you is you need an oxygen tank and there really is no need for the amount of layers they suggest.

Good grief- it was the most difficult walk I have ever undertaken! The pathway was so steep I felt my knees were going to hit the pavement in front of me and typically the most difficult part of the hike was where there were loads of signs saying ‘No Stopping-Rocks Falling’. I took the risk- I had to stop! It was so hard and due to lack of music or company I found it incredibly difficult to keep motivating myself to walk up this pathway to hell. Every time I turned a corner, I relaxed a little thinking I made it but no – I was just greeted by another ridiculously steep path I have ever seen. I stopped and nearly turned round so many times as I caught a glimpse of the glacier, no one would have known if I did just cheat and go to the lookout but somehow I fought through the mental barrier and made it to the top. It was such a relief when I got there but it took a good 5minutes for me to even take in the glacier which I had just hiked to see due to how hot, tired and shaky I was. Once I calmed down enough to see the glacier I was not disappointed. It was so beautiful and it shocked me to see how much it differed to the Franz Josef Glacier. I naively thought a glacier was a glacier but the differences were quite incredible and that made it even all the more worth it that I fought through the pain and mental block to see it.

On the way back down to the car I practically skipped. It was so steep but such a relief to be going downhill after accomplishing something I doubted many times that I would give up on. I did try to hold in my relief whilst I was passing people on the way up and I did tell them to keep going as it was completely worth it- I like to think it motivated them to keep going as no-one had said anything to me when I was hiking up the hill and at the end of the day we are all enduring the same hell for the same reward.

Once I got to my car I sat with all the doors open for a good 10minutes whilst I waited for my adrenaline to subside and I was safe to drive again. It was now time to head home but via Lake Matheson. Lake Matheson was a lake I had actually heard of before arriving in New Zealand and I knew I wanted to see it. The reflection of the water is widely talked about and on a good day you can see Mount Cook from the viewing spot so I knew I couldn’t be so close to it without seeing it. The drive was only 10minutes away so I got there, parked my car and walked 30minutes to the Reflection Point. In hindsight I wish I had done this walk before Fox Glacier as it wasn’t a difficult one but due to the state of my legs after the previous hike, the slightest incline killed me and made it feel much more difficult than it actually was. However, the lake was incredible. It was so beautiful and not even the cloud directly over Mount Cook could have ruined it for me. I sat at Reflection Point for a while just taking in the sights before me and emptying any thoughts before taking photos and heading to my car for the long drive home. Despite how heavy my legs felt, I felt so content and at ease which was really pleasant.

On the way back to the car the clouds parted and I could see Mount Cook in all its glory. I have never been so excited about seeing a mountain but it looked so incredibly majestic on the skyline I felt privileged to have seen it in all its glory. After taking photos I headed to my car, plugged in my iPod and set off for home.

Due to it being 3pm by the time I left, I knew I wouldn’t get home until 8 at the earliest so I wanted to get as far as I could, as quickly as I could, due to knowing it would go dark incredibly quickly from 5pm and with no street lights, it would be a hard slog to keep going on the very windy roads. Driving in the dark is not an experience I particularly enjoy at the best of times but this was like no other drive I have done. I think I only passed 5 cars/lorries for 3hours once it turned dark so I was driving  back alone and due to the lack of signs I had no idea how long left I had. If I hadn’t done the drive in the daytime I would not have known I was surrounded by mountains, lakes and other beautiful sights. It was quite nice however being able to leave your full beam on at all times- means you avoid having to do the quick turn off when you see another car approach.

By the time I got home I was shattered but could not believe what I had seen over the past 24hours. People I spoke to when I was in Fox or Franz Josef thought I was crazy travelling all that way for such a short visit but I am so glad I did. Yes it was a long drive but the sights I saw were simply incredible. I would highly recommend anyone who is visiting New Zealand to make the effort to see them and when I return I will definitely visit them again…but in a helicopter!